Monday, November 19, 2012
Nikon D600 now on sale under $2000
Wow, that was fast. The Nikon D600 has been discounted to under $2000 street. This is probably the best mulit-purpose DSLR on the market. You can get it here: Nikon D600.
How to select the right focal length when shooting your mid-range zoom
So often I see people using their zoom lens to only change angle of view, with little to no consideration for depth of field, perspective and distortion. I see them raise the camera to their eye, turn the zoom ring until their intended subject fills the frame to their liking, then shoot. They are selecting their focal length based on field of view only (or how much you can take in, usually expressed in degrees, like 65 degrees horizontally).
But there are a couple other things to consider when selecting a focal length. A wider lens increases depth of field and wide angle distortion. So when you turn the zoom to go wide, you'll want to think about how that will affect your subject. If you want to shoot a portrait, you'll usually not want to go wide as that can distort peoples' features and eliminate the nice soft blurriness of your background.
Let's take a typical kit zoom lens, like the Nikon 18-55mm or the Canon 18-55mm.
After shooting for a while with a zoom lens like this, you'll want to learn more about focal lengths. Some people will think, hey maybe I should buy a prime lens and shoot with that for a while to learn more. If that's you, then go ahead and buy the excellent Nikon 35mm f/1.8. It's inexpensive, light, fast and ultra sharp. In the Canon system, you can get the 35mm f2. With one of these lenses, you'll learn just what shooting with a normal lens means. Go shoot everything with it. You'll learn that if you need to get closer to your subject, you'll have to use your feet to "zoom" in, and vice versa.
The benefit of a fixed focal length "prime" lens is you'll learn a great deal about that focal length. You'll know how it responds to people subjects, landscape subjects, street photography, whatever you choose to shoot. And importantly, you won't give into the crutch of turning that zoom dial to frame your subject. You'll eventually know even before putting your camera to your eye whether you'll need to step back or step forward to get what you want in the frame.
You'll also benefit from a much faster lens (the prime will gather about 10x more light than your kit zoom). You'll be able to shoot in much lower light conditions without flash, you'll be stunned when you first start shooting with a fast prime.
If you don't want to buy another lens, there is an easy way to simulate the effect of using a prime. Get some duct tape or gaffers tape, set your lens to 35mm, and tape the zoom dial so it doesn't move. Seriously, actually get your camera out and tape it and leave it this way for the next 3 months. Resist the temptation to untape the zoom, as it will impede your learning. You won't get the same shallow depth of field and low light shooting benefits as buying the prime, but you will get a taste of what shooting with a fixed focal length lens feels like.
After 3 months, switch the zoom position to 18mm and shoot everything there for 3 more months. Eventually you'll learn what the different focal lengths will yield.
Below, I've summarized the different focal lengths for you. If you choose the tape method of learning, I would recommend you go in this order: 35mm, then 18mm, then 55mm. The equivalent lengths in full-frame are 50mm, 28mm and 85mm (or the classic lengths for "normal," "wide" and "portrait.")
At 18mm, the full-frame equivalent focal length is about 27mm. This is considered wide angle, and is useful for creative wide angle effects and indoor photography due to the larger angle of view (about 65 degrees horizontally). Wide angle is not traditionally used for portraits due to wide angle distortion (the sides and things closer to the camera get stretched).
At 24mm, the full-frame equivalent is about 35mm. This is considered moderate wide angle or "normal." The angle of view is about 54 degrees horizontally. Neither wide or telephoto, this is a good focal length for street or documentary photography. Great for interior social photography. Not so good for capturing sports from the sidelines (not telephoto enough) or shooting architecture or landscapes (not wide enough). The iPhone camera's angle of view is similar to this focal length.
At 35mm, the full-frame equivalent is about 50mm. This is the classic "normal" lens for full frame film or digital photography. The angle of view is about 39 degrees horizontally. You'll see this length used a lot for a variety of styles including street photography, full length fashion photography or portraiture, still life and product shoots, etc. It's a great focal length due to its relatively low distortion and very "normal" perspective which closely matches the perspective of the human eye.
At 55mm, the full-frame equivalent is about 85mm. This is the classic "portrait" lens in full-frame. The angle of view is about 23 degrees. As the name implies, this focal length is used often for portraits and fashion. The moderate telephoto length minimizes distortion and depth of field, which is flattering for people photography and yields nicely blurred backgrounds.
But there are a couple other things to consider when selecting a focal length. A wider lens increases depth of field and wide angle distortion. So when you turn the zoom to go wide, you'll want to think about how that will affect your subject. If you want to shoot a portrait, you'll usually not want to go wide as that can distort peoples' features and eliminate the nice soft blurriness of your background.
Let's take a typical kit zoom lens, like the Nikon 18-55mm or the Canon 18-55mm.
After shooting for a while with a zoom lens like this, you'll want to learn more about focal lengths. Some people will think, hey maybe I should buy a prime lens and shoot with that for a while to learn more. If that's you, then go ahead and buy the excellent Nikon 35mm f/1.8. It's inexpensive, light, fast and ultra sharp. In the Canon system, you can get the 35mm f2. With one of these lenses, you'll learn just what shooting with a normal lens means. Go shoot everything with it. You'll learn that if you need to get closer to your subject, you'll have to use your feet to "zoom" in, and vice versa.
The benefit of a fixed focal length "prime" lens is you'll learn a great deal about that focal length. You'll know how it responds to people subjects, landscape subjects, street photography, whatever you choose to shoot. And importantly, you won't give into the crutch of turning that zoom dial to frame your subject. You'll eventually know even before putting your camera to your eye whether you'll need to step back or step forward to get what you want in the frame.
You'll also benefit from a much faster lens (the prime will gather about 10x more light than your kit zoom). You'll be able to shoot in much lower light conditions without flash, you'll be stunned when you first start shooting with a fast prime.
If you don't want to buy another lens, there is an easy way to simulate the effect of using a prime. Get some duct tape or gaffers tape, set your lens to 35mm, and tape the zoom dial so it doesn't move. Seriously, actually get your camera out and tape it and leave it this way for the next 3 months. Resist the temptation to untape the zoom, as it will impede your learning. You won't get the same shallow depth of field and low light shooting benefits as buying the prime, but you will get a taste of what shooting with a fixed focal length lens feels like.
After 3 months, switch the zoom position to 18mm and shoot everything there for 3 more months. Eventually you'll learn what the different focal lengths will yield.
Below, I've summarized the different focal lengths for you. If you choose the tape method of learning, I would recommend you go in this order: 35mm, then 18mm, then 55mm. The equivalent lengths in full-frame are 50mm, 28mm and 85mm (or the classic lengths for "normal," "wide" and "portrait.")
At 18mm, the full-frame equivalent focal length is about 27mm. This is considered wide angle, and is useful for creative wide angle effects and indoor photography due to the larger angle of view (about 65 degrees horizontally). Wide angle is not traditionally used for portraits due to wide angle distortion (the sides and things closer to the camera get stretched).
At 24mm, the full-frame equivalent is about 35mm. This is considered moderate wide angle or "normal." The angle of view is about 54 degrees horizontally. Neither wide or telephoto, this is a good focal length for street or documentary photography. Great for interior social photography. Not so good for capturing sports from the sidelines (not telephoto enough) or shooting architecture or landscapes (not wide enough). The iPhone camera's angle of view is similar to this focal length.
At 35mm, the full-frame equivalent is about 50mm. This is the classic "normal" lens for full frame film or digital photography. The angle of view is about 39 degrees horizontally. You'll see this length used a lot for a variety of styles including street photography, full length fashion photography or portraiture, still life and product shoots, etc. It's a great focal length due to its relatively low distortion and very "normal" perspective which closely matches the perspective of the human eye.
At 55mm, the full-frame equivalent is about 85mm. This is the classic "portrait" lens in full-frame. The angle of view is about 23 degrees. As the name implies, this focal length is used often for portraits and fashion. The moderate telephoto length minimizes distortion and depth of field, which is flattering for people photography and yields nicely blurred backgrounds.
Monday, November 12, 2012
Definitive List of Recommended Autofocus Lenses for the D600
The Nikon D600
is the camera that probably 95% of those who bought the D800 should have bought in the first place. It has superbly high resolution (more than any enthusiast or even professional is ever going to need) and is packed with almost every feature anyone needs. You also partially avoid the high requirements of computer storage/memory/speed to support the huge files of the D800 (I say partially because the D600's files are darn big too).
Now that it's been released, I'm starting to get questions from people about lens choice. I could point them to my list of recommended lenses for the D800E, but since a lot of these folks are enthusiast photographers and some are just stepping up to the FX (full-frame) format, I understand that they may not want to shell out for the best lenses.
So, I present my list of recommended lenses for the D600. These are top performing lenses, but selected with an eye towards affordability and flexibility. Therefore, I won't be listing some of the exotics, like the amazing 200mm f/2. For those lenses, check out the recommendations for the D800E. Again, I am highlighting autofocus lenses only.
The Best Normal Lenses:
is the camera that probably 95% of those who bought the D800 should have bought in the first place. It has superbly high resolution (more than any enthusiast or even professional is ever going to need) and is packed with almost every feature anyone needs. You also partially avoid the high requirements of computer storage/memory/speed to support the huge files of the D800 (I say partially because the D600's files are darn big too).Now that it's been released, I'm starting to get questions from people about lens choice. I could point them to my list of recommended lenses for the D800E, but since a lot of these folks are enthusiast photographers and some are just stepping up to the FX (full-frame) format, I understand that they may not want to shell out for the best lenses.
So, I present my list of recommended lenses for the D600. These are top performing lenses, but selected with an eye towards affordability and flexibility. Therefore, I won't be listing some of the exotics, like the amazing 200mm f/2. For those lenses, check out the recommendations for the D800E. Again, I am highlighting autofocus lenses only.
The Best Normal Lenses:
- If you want the absolute best and sharpest: Nikon 60mm f/2.8G Micro
- If you want to save money, get the previous generation: Nikon 60mm f/2.8D AF Micro
- I have a hard time recommending any of the AF 50mm lenses as they are really soft wide open, but if you must have one, I would get the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G
and make sure you shoot it at its optimum apertures (meaning 4, 5.6, 8, or 11).
- Don't bother with the Sigma 1.4.
The Best Mid-Range Zoom (if you must have a mid-range zoom):
- The best, even for the D600, is still this one: Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G
- If you can't afford the 24-70, then this is a decent compromise. Just be sure to shoot it at f/5.6 or f/8 for the sharpest photos. Wide open, you will be disappointed: Nikon 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G VR
- I can't recommend the 24-120mm f/4G
because you have to use it at optimum apertures for it to be decent; it's not really up to the standards of the D600 or the D800.
The Best Portrait Lens:
- Easy: Nikon 85mm f/1.8G
The Best Telephoto Lens (the same list as for the D800):
- This one is great not just for macro, but for any distance: Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR Micro
- This misunderstood lens is blisteringly sharp, but older: Nikon 105mm f/2.0D DC
- And the same DC system in a slightly longer focal length: Nikon 135mm f/2.0D DC
The Best Wide Angle Lens:
- Easy: Nikon 28mm f/1.8G
The Best Telephoto Zoom Lens:
- If you've got the cash, you will never regret this: Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G VR II
- The budget option is this, if you don't need VR: Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8D
- I'm tempted to list the new f/4 zoom, but I've always ended up needing f2.8, so you'll really have to know yourself as a photographer to make this decision: Nikon 70-200 f/4G
The Best Ultra-wide Angle Lenses:
This is more difficult as the venerable 14-24mm
shows its corner deficiencies with the resolution of the D800. This is where you'll want to compromise on the autofocus and go with the Zeiss 15mm when it starts shipping.
shows its corner deficiencies with the resolution of the D800. This is where you'll want to compromise on the autofocus and go with the Zeiss 15mm when it starts shipping.
The Best Macro Lens:
- Easy: Nikon 200mm f/4.0D Micro
Conclusion:
The lenses above should cover everything that 99% of general users of the D800E will encounter. If you want to put together a zoom kit that covers everything, I would get the 24-70
and the 70-200 and be done with it (add the ultra wide if you need it). If you want the utmost in image quality, go with the primes.
and the 70-200 and be done with it (add the ultra wide if you need it). If you want the utmost in image quality, go with the primes.Definitive List of Recommended Autofocus Lenses for the D800E (and D800)
Everyone has been asking me what lenses they should get for their D800E (and D800). Unlike in the medium format digital world, where most all of the lenses are superb, even when shot wide open, in the 35mm world you have to pick and choose your lenses very carefully to ensure that they will be good enough on the D800.
If you pick a lens that's just not up to standard of resolution on the D800E, you're needlessly wasting that 36 megapixel goodness. (In that case, you may as well just shoot with a lower resolution camera like the D600 or even the D700. Check out my recommended lenses for the D600.)
So I've decided to put this page together to help D800E and prospective D800E buyers select the very best lenses for their camera. Now keep in mind that most lenses, if you know how to shoot them with exquisite technique, can give you great results, even on the D800. But here I'm going to focus on lenses that you can shoot at most any aperture and get stellar results from.
Also, I've decided to limit the selection to autofocus lenses only. If you're shooting still life or landscapes and don't need autofocus, that's just fine. But for most people, one of the main reasons to get a DSLR is for their fast and accurate autofocus. So I'll only be highlighting autofocus lenses.
If you pick a lens that's just not up to standard of resolution on the D800E, you're needlessly wasting that 36 megapixel goodness. (In that case, you may as well just shoot with a lower resolution camera like the D600 or even the D700. Check out my recommended lenses for the D600.)
So I've decided to put this page together to help D800E and prospective D800E buyers select the very best lenses for their camera. Now keep in mind that most lenses, if you know how to shoot them with exquisite technique, can give you great results, even on the D800. But here I'm going to focus on lenses that you can shoot at most any aperture and get stellar results from.
Also, I've decided to limit the selection to autofocus lenses only. If you're shooting still life or landscapes and don't need autofocus, that's just fine. But for most people, one of the main reasons to get a DSLR is for their fast and accurate autofocus. So I'll only be highlighting autofocus lenses.
The Best Normal Lenses:
- If you want the absolute best and sharpest: Nikon 60mm f/2.8G Micro
- If you want the sharpest but don't mind the previous generation to save a few bucks: Nikon 60mm f/2.8D AF Micro
- I have a hard time recommending any of the AF 50mm lenses as they are really soft wide open. Don't bother with the Sigma 1.4 either.
- My secret weapon normal lens is this one: (coming soon, stay tuned)
The Best Mid-Range Zoom (if you must have a mid-range zoom):
- If you must have the absolute best and sharpest, then there is no question:Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G
- I'm reluctant to list this, but if you can't afford the 24-70, then this is the next best thing. You'll need to shoot it at f/5.6 or f/8 for the sharpest photos though: Nikon 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G VR
- I can't recommend the 24-120 f/4, it's not really up to the standards of the D800.
The Best Portrait Lens:
- Easy: Nikon 85mm f/1.8G
The Best Telephoto Lens (a few good choices here):
- This one is great not just for macro, but for any distance: Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR Micro
- This misunderstood lens is blisteringly sharp, but older: Nikon 105mm f/2.0D DC
- And the same DC system in a slightly longer focal length: Nikon 135mm f/2.0D DC
- The amazing, super high resolving 200mm: Nikon 200mm f/2.0G
The Best Wide Angle Lens:
- Easy: Nikon 28mm f/1.8G
The Best Telephoto Zoom Lens:
- Another easy one: Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G VR II
The Best Ultra-wide Angle Lenses:
This is more difficult as the venerable 14-24mm shows its corner deficiencies with the resolution of the D800. This is where you'll want to compromise on the autofocus and go with the Zeiss 15mm when it starts shipping.
shows its corner deficiencies with the resolution of the D800. This is where you'll want to compromise on the autofocus and go with the Zeiss 15mm when it starts shipping.
The Best Macro Lens:
- Easy: Nikon 200mm f/4.0D Micro
- Or the slightly shorter: Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR Micro
- I can't recommend the 60mm or 55mm micro lenses because they don't provide enough working distance when shooting macro subjects.
Conclusion:
The lenses above should cover everything that 99% of general users of the D800E will encounter. If you want to put together a zoom kit that covers everything, I would get the 24-70 and the 70-200 and be done with it (add the ultra wide if you need it). If you want the utmost in image quality, go with the primes.
and the 70-200 and be done with it (add the ultra wide if you need it). If you want the utmost in image quality, go with the primes.Sunday, November 11, 2012
Nikon D800E now in stock at Amazon
Get it here: Nikon D800E 36.3 MP FX Digital SLR
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